T is for Training
Why Your Sighthound Isn't Stubborn (They're Just Not Interested)
If you've trained a Labrador, a Collie or a Spaniel, you need to forget everything you learnt. Not because it was wrong. Because it was for a different species. Sighthounds operate on an entirely different motivational system, and the sooner you accept that, the happier you'll both be.
They're not stupid. They're not stubborn. They're independent. They were bred to work alone, making split-second decisions at 40mph without waiting for instructions. The concept of doing something because you asked them to, just because you asked, is genuinely foreign to them.
Training a sighthound is possible. It's just a different conversation.
Lower your expectations (then enjoy exceeding them)
A trained sighthound is not a trained Border Collie. You will not have a dog that responds to fifteen commands on a whistle, retrieves your slippers and performs agility runs at competition level.
What you can reasonably aim for:
Reliable sit (eventually).
A decent recall in low-distraction environments (with time and practice).
Walking on a loose lead (most of the time).
Basic manners around food and guests.
Settling calmly when asked.
That might not sound like much. But for a sighthound, these are genuine achievements. Celebrate every single one.
What works
Positive reinforcement. Full stop. That's the whole answer.
Sighthounds respond to rewards. Treats, praise, a game, a favourite toy. They'll repeat a behaviour if they associate it with something good. They will not repeat a behaviour because you told them to. The motivation has to come from them, and your job is to make the desired behaviour worth their while.
High-value treats: Regular dog biscuits won't cut it. Sighthounds are discerning. Think small pieces of chicken, cheese, liver treats, something they actually care about. The treat needs to outweigh the effort of cooperating.
Short sessions: Five minutes is plenty. Ten is pushing it. Sighthounds lose interest quickly. A short, fun session where they succeed is worth more than a twenty-minute slog where they mentally checked out after minute three.
Timing: Mark the behaviour the instant it happens. A clicker or a consistent word ('yes', 'good') paired with an immediate treat. Sighthounds don't connect a reward with something they did thirty seconds ago. The link has to be instant.
End on a win: Always finish a training session with something they can do well. Even if the new skill isn't landing, end with a reliable behaviour and a reward. They should walk away from training feeling good, not frustrated.
What doesn't work
Firmness: A stern voice doesn't motivate a sighthound. It frightens them. Or it makes them switch off entirely. Neither outcome is useful.
Repetition without reward: Asking them to sit fifteen times in a row without sufficient motivation isn't training. It's nagging. They'll tune you out by attempt three.
Punishment: Never. Not a raised voice, not a physical correction, not withdrawing attention as a consequence. Sighthounds are sensitive. Punishment creates fear, and fear creates avoidance. Our kindness guide covers this in more depth.
Comparing them to other breeds: If the Spaniel in your training class is learning three new tricks per session and your greyhound is still deciding whether sitting is worth the effort, that's fine. They're different dogs. Different brains. Different priorities.
The recall question
Recall is the big one, and it's covered in detail in our off-lead guide. The short version: build it slowly, in low-distraction environments, with very high-value rewards. Start on a long line. Practise relentlessly. And accept that even with perfect training, a genuine prey trigger can override recall in any sighthound.
A sighthound with imperfect recall who's managed safely on a lead is not a training failure. It's a realistic outcome for the breed.
Lead walking
Sighthounds are generally good on a lead once they've settled into a routine. They're not natural pullers (except when they spot something interesting, at which point all bets are off).
If your hound pulls, a front-clip harness can help by redirecting their forward momentum. Stop-start training works too: when they pull, stop walking. When the lead goes slack, walk again. It takes patience, but sighthounds are creatures of habit and they learn the pattern.
Don't use a slip lead or choke chain. They're unnecessary and potentially harmful, especially on a sighthound's thin neck.
House training
Most adult sighthounds from rescue are already house trained, or close to it, especially if they've been in a foster home. If yours isn't, the process is simple: take them out after every meal, every nap and every period of activity. Reward when they go outside. Don't punish accidents. They'll get it.
Some hounds take a few days. Some take a few weeks. Older dogs or those who've spent their entire lives in kennels may take longer. Patience, consistency and a good enzyme cleaner for the carpet are all you need.
The realistic picture
A well-trained sighthound is not an obedient robot. They're a cooperative companion who's chosen to work with you because you've made it worth their while. Some days, that cooperation will be brilliant. Other days, they'll look you dead in the eye, consider your request and decide, with absolute clarity, that no.
That's not failure. That's a sighthound.
And honestly, the day your greyhound sits on command, without being asked twice, without needing a treat, just because they felt like it, you'll feel a pride that a Collie owner will never understand
Because you'll know they chose to do it. And that means everything.
About the Savvy Sighthound
The Savvy Sighthound is a small, independent website built by sighthound enthusiasts in the UK and Ireland. We share practical tips, honest stories and hard-won wisdom about life with greyhounds, whippets, lurchers and sighthound mixes. No sponsors. No sales pitch. Just real life with long dogs based on our experience.
We're sighthound lovers, not vets. If you're ever unsure about your hound's health or wellbeing, always speak to your vet.
